Been doing this since '98. In and out of houses. And I'll tell you, every single bathroom counter is the same. A mess. Toothbrushes, jars, tubes of who-knows-what, just scattered. People think a little tray will fix it. And it can. But they always buy some cheap plastic thing, or they try to build one that can't handle the one thing every bathroom is full of.
Moisture.
A bathroom is a tough place for anything to live. Steam from the shower every morning. Splashes. It's just always damp. Building a tray for that room isn't a little craft project. It’s a fight against water. Simple as that.
Build it right, and it’ll look good for years. But if you cut corners, you’re just making a fancy, warped piece of moldy wood. I've seen it. More times than I can count. So here’s how you do it so you don't have to do it again in six months.
Planning Your DIY Bathroom Tray Project
The right materials are the foundation of a project that lasts. Choose wisely.
The real work is done before you ever plug in a saw. Thinking. All the mistakes happen because nobody wants to think first. Grab a tape measure—don't just eyeball it—and figure out how big this thing actually needs to be. Too big and it just looks clumsy. Too small and you haven't solved your clutter problem at all. Write the numbers down.
Then you gotta pick what it's made of. This is the big one. This decision right here decides how hard the project will be and how long it'll last. There are a few good options.
Choosing the Right Material for the Job
This is where people get tripped up. They see some nice-looking wood and get all excited. They forget about the practicality. In a bathroom, practical comes first, last, and always. You need something that won't fall apart when it gets wet.
Wood looks good. Classic. But you gotta be picky. Stay away from pine. For the love of god, no pine. It's cheap, yeah, but it dents if you look at it wrong and soaks up water like a paper towel.
You want a hardwood. Something with some natural fight in it. Teak is the king for a reason; it's what they use on boats. Cedar works too. A good piece of oak or maple is fine, but you have to seal it perfectly. No mistakes.
Even better? Leftovers. Had this one homeowner over on Patterson Street, we’d just done her kitchen counters and had a nice piece of quartz left. Made a tray out of it in ten minutes. Thing will outlast the house. A few floor tiles will also work. That stuff is already made to be tough. Understanding the pros and cons of various materials, including cultured marble vanity tops, can help you make the best choice.
Then there's that epoxy resin stuff. Looks like colored glass, pretty cool. But I'll be blunt, it’s not for beginners. You’re mixing chemicals, it’s a sticky mess, and you need a ton of ventilation. If this is your first time making something, just stick to wood or stone. Seriously.
Look, the options can get confusing. To make it a bit clearer, here's how I break it down for my clients:
| Material Type | The Good Part | The Hard Part | My Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hardwood (Teak, Oak) | Classic look, feels solid, very DIY-friendly. | You absolutely must seal it perfectly or it will fail. | The best all-around choice for a first-timer. |
| Stone or Tile | Basically indestructible and 100 percent waterproof. | Can be heavy, and edges might need professional polishing. | A cheat code if you have leftovers from another job. |
| Epoxy Resin | Modern look, totally custom colors, perfectly waterproof. | Messy, requires good ventilation, and has a steep learning curve. | Leave this to the pros unless you love a challenge. |
My Take: For most people, a good hardwood is the way to go. It's forgiving, it looks great, and the process will teach you a lot. Stone is the easiest if you can get a piece cut and finished, but don't try to cut it yourself without the right tools.
How to Build a Wooden DIY Bathroom Tray
This is the most important step: sealing the wood against moisture with multiple, careful coats.
Okay, so you’re going with wood. It's a good choice. Timeless. You get your hardwood—your moisture-resistant hardwood—and your dimensions, and you can get started.
Assembly and Construction
First, cut the base to size. For the sides, a one-by-three board is usually about right. You can cut it down to an inch and a half high if you want something lower-profile.
Now, the corners. If you have a miter saw, fine, cut the ends at a 45-degree angle. You’ll get those nice, clean corners. Don't have one? Don't worry about it. Just do a simple butt joint, where one end just presses up against the face of the other. The real strength here comes from the glue, not how fancy your joint is.
And about that glue. Don't go cheap. You absolutely need a waterproof wood glue. Titebond III is what I use. If you use the standard stuff, the first time it gets good and wet, it'll just dissolve and your tray will fall to pieces.
Put a thin layer of glue on your joints, clamp them up tight. A couple of small brad nails help hold it together while the glue sets. Then leave it alone. Let it cure for a full 24 hours. Don't rush it.
How to Waterproof Your Wooden Tray
If you listen to one thing, listen to this. The finish isn't for looks. It's armor. It's the only thing standing between your wood and rot. This is it. The most important step.
Once the glue is rock hard, you have to sand everything. Start with something like 120-grit paper to knock down any rough spots. Then move to a 220-grit to get it smooth. Really smooth.
Now you seal it. You need a barrier. Something that water can't get through. Best bet is a marine varnish or an oil-based polyurethane. And you need to apply at least three coats. A minimum of three coats.
Put the first coat on. Let it dry completely. Then, you have to lightly sand the whole thing again with very fine sandpaper. This just scuffs it up so the next coat has something to really bite onto.
Wipe off all the dust. Put on the second coat. Repeat the whole process for the third. And when I say seal everything, I mean everything. Top, bottom, inside, outside, the edges. All of it. Water is sneaky. It’ll find the one spot you missed.
Alternative Materials: Tile, Stone, or Resin Trays
Wood isn't your only option. Stone, tile, and resin offer unique and durable alternatives.
If you’re not using wood, the job is different, but the goal's the same. Make it tough and waterproof.
Working with Leftover Tile or Stone
Using a piece of leftover countertop stone is the easiest project on this list. It’s already waterproof. The only thing you need to worry about are the edges being sharp. A stone shop can polish them for you, or you can do it yourself with some diamond hand pads. It’s a bit of work. Stick some little rubber feet on the bottom so it doesn't scratch the counter. Done.
If you’re using smaller tiles, you need a base. A solid, waterproof base. A piece of cement backer board is what you want. Cut that to size, then stick your tiles on with thin-set mortar. Just like doing a tiny patch of floor.
After the mortar is set, you fill the lines with grout. And here's another thing people always, always forget.
You must seal the grout.
Unsealed grout is a sponge. It’ll soak up soap, dirt, whatever. It'll get disgusting and you will never, ever get it clean again.
A Quick Word on Resin
If you really want to try that resin stuff, just do your homework first. Get a good kit, read the instructions three times. Wear gloves, safety glasses, and do it in the garage with the door open. The fumes are no joke.
The trick is to mix it slow so you don't get a million bubbles. Pour it. Then you can use a little heat gun to pop the bubbles that come up. After that, you just have to wait. And wait. Could be a few days before it's fully cured. It’s a project that requires patience. Lots of it.
Finishing Touches for a Professional Look
Small details like quality handles can make your DIY project look like a high-end store-bought piece.
A few little details can make it look less like something you knocked together in the garage. Handles are a good touch. Makes it look sharp, and it's easier to pick up. You can just get some cabinet pulls at the hardware store.
Just measure carefully so they're centered. Nothing looks worse than crooked handles. Drill small pilot holes first so you don't split the wood when you put the screws in. And here’s a little trick I use: put a tiny dab of clear silicone in the hole right before you screw the handle on. It's just one more little barrier to keep water out. These final details can help your tray fit in with other rustic bathroom accessories.
Conclusion
From cluttered chaos to organized calm. That's the power of a well-executed weekend project.
So there you go. It's a good weekend project, and it'll definitely clean up your counter. But you have to remember what you're building. It's a small boat that's going to live in a swamp.
Take your time. Use the right stuff. Seal it like you mean it. Do it right, and you'll have a nice piece you can be proud of. Do it wrong, and you'll be making another one next year. Your call.